Muses: Emilie Louise Flöge

Episode Summary

Emily Louise Flöge was born in 1874 to a wealthy Viennese family. As a young woman, she worked as a seamstress and fashion designer. In 1904, Emily and her sisters opened a fashion salon called Schwester and Flöge that catered to upper-class women in Vienna. Emily designed flowing dresses that abandoned the restrictive corseted styles of the time. In the 1890s, Emily met the artist Gustav Klimt through family connections. They formed a lifelong companionship and Klimt painted several portraits of Emily, including his famous work The Kiss. While they had a close relationship, it was likely platonic in nature. Emily was not just Klimt's muse - she was an influential avant-garde fashion designer in her own right. Her salon stayed in business for over 30 years. However, her achievements have often been overlooked in favor of her relationship with Klimt. Emily Flöge was a driver of change in women's fashion and an important creative figure in turn-of-the-century Vienna.

Episode Show Notes

Emilie Louise Flöge (1874-1952) was an avant-garde fashion designer, often seen as the progenitor to Coco Chanel. She caught the attention of artist Gustav Klimt and was the subject of one of his most famous paintings, “The Kiss.” However, she wasn’t just Klimt’s muse–she was also a creative collaborator.

Episode Transcript

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At Morgan & Morgan, we've made it really easy. Anything that we need from you, you're able to do from the comfort of your home. You can just dial pound law and you talk to someone like me. SPEAKER_01: If you or any one of your family has been injured, call Morgan & Morgan, America's largest injury law firm. We've collected over $15 billion for our clients. It's easy. Visit forthepeople.com for an office near you. SPEAKER_03: This August on Womanica, we're taking a trip through history to discover the stories of muses, women whose lives inspired work that's shaped our culture in small ways and large. Special thanks to this month's sponsor, Mercedes-Benz, whose own famous namesake was inspired by a young muse named Mercedes. Join us all month long for fascinating stories of women who are drivers of creativity, inspiration, and artistic expression. Hello, from Wonder Media Network, I'm Jenny Kaplan, and this is Womanica. This month, we're talking about muses, women who were drivers of creativity and inspiration. Today, we're talking about an avant-garde fashion designer. She caught the attention of artist Gustave Klimt and was the subject of one of his most famous paintings, The Kiss. She wasn't just Klimt's muse, she was also a creative artist. Please welcome Emily Louise Flugge. Emily Flugge was born on August 30th, 1874 in Vienna, Austria. She was one of four children born in a family that belonged to the wealthiest class of Viennese society. Emily's father, Hermann, was a successful entrepreneur. As a young girl, Emily worked as a seamstress, eventually making her way up to design fashion as well. When she started working in the industry, the trends for women were quite limited. Most designs were tight, figure-hugging, and featured a corset. That was not the style that Emily was interested in designing. In 1904, Emily and her sisters Pauline and Helene opened a fashion salon called Schwester and Flugge, which translates to Flugge Sisters. It was very unusual for three unmarried women to be in the fashion industry. It was very unusual for three unmarried women to run a business at the time, but their work successfully catered to the upper-class women of Vienna. Emily designed dresses that abandoned the corseted styles many women were wearing. She embraced the empire waist and billowing sleeves. Her dresses were revolutionary in their flowing style and intricate patterns. The sisters showcased their pieces in the salon, which was designed by architect Joseph Hoffman. The salon's logo was made by artist Gustav Klimt. Emily first met Klimt in 1891. He was 12 years her senior, and they had just become in-laws of sorts. Emily's sister, Helene, was marrying Klimt's brother. Tragically, this brother passed away unexpectedly the following year. In this time of grief, the two families grew closer, and Emily and Klimt formed what would become a lifelong companionship. Over the course of their relationship, they exchanged more than 400 letters. In different accounts, Emily is Klimt's muse, partner, companion, and even lover. There's much speculation about the nature of their relationship. And while it was certainly a loving one, scholars believe it was platonic. During summer trips to Lake Adazi, Klimt began painting Emily. In 1902, he painted The Portrait of Emily Flugge, in which she's elegantly posed in an ornate dress of her own design. Several years later, Klimt painted one of his most famous works, The Kiss. The painting depicts a man and a woman passionately embracing in a field of flowers. Gold hues dominate the palette, and both of them are dressed in uniquely patterned clothing that recalls Emily's fashion designs. Many think that the pair depicted in The Kiss are Emily and Klimt. All the while, Emily was still running her boutique business. The salon weathered the Great Depression and continued catering to loyal, progressive customers. In 1938, as the Nazis gained power in Austria, the Schwester & Flugge salon finally closed its doors. On May 26th, 1952, Emily died of kidney failure. Because Emily was known as Klimt's proclaimed muse, her own achievements in the fashion industry have been overlooked. Emily's avant-garde style and the rebellion in her designs were incredibly influential. Her work was part of a larger movement of new styles of dress, which were truly radical. All month, we're highlighting muses. For more information, check us out on Facebook and Instagram, at Wamanica Podcast. Special thanks to Liz Kaplan, my favorite sister and co-creator. Talk to you tomorrow. SPEAKER_07: An epic matchup between your two favorite teams and you're at the game getting the most from what it means to be here with American Express. 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