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SPEAKER_02: Hello, from Wonder Media Network, I'm Jenny Kaplan, and this is Womanica. This month we're talking about movers and shakers, dancers, stunt women, martial artists, and other pioneering women who use their physical prowess to shake things up. Today's Womanican ascended to the top of the world's highest heights, literally. Meet the first woman to summit Mount Everest, Junco Tebe. Junco Ishibashi was born on September 22nd, 1939 in Fukushima Prefecture, Japan. Growing up in the shadow of World War II, Junco's family was impoverished and she was considered a weak child. But she wouldn't be seen as weak for long. When she was 10 years old, her class went on a field trip to the mountains in Nausu, Japan. Junco was captivated by the mountain, and with that, a lifelong passion was born. After graduating from Showa Women's University, Junco sought out climbing groups. She found they were mostly filled with men who assumed she was just there to find a husband. In reality, she was interested in the mountains. So Junco started an all-women's mountaineering club. The group, the first of its kind in Japan, flew in the face of societal standards. As Junco said, it was still widely considered that men were the ones to work outside and women would stay at home. But Junco and her husband Masunobu Tabay, a fellow mountaineer, did not ascend to these traditional gender roles. Masunobu held down a job at Honda and took care of their two children when Junco traveled for climbing. In the early 1970s, Junco's mountaineering group received news that they'd been awarded a coveted permit to attempt the holy grail of mountaineering, Mount Everest. So it began years of planning, fundraising, and training. Located in the Himalayan mountains on the border of Nepal and Tebe at 29,032 feet, Mount Everest is the tallest mountain on Earth. Climbers trained for years to attempt the treacherous terrain, which can take months to complete. Supplemental oxygen and the trusty guidance of native Nepalese Sherpas are essential for a successful climb. The time, resources, and gear needed for such a climb also come with a hefty price tag. Junco's all-women crew struggled to gain sponsorship for their expedition. They were told Everest was no place for women. Fortunately, a local newspaper and television station eventually supported the group. Even still, each woman paid for much of her own trip. Junco gave piano and English lessons to supplement the costs. When Junco's expedition set out in the spring of 1975, it had been 22 years since the first man had summoned at Everest. No woman had yet accomplished the feat. Their ascent wasn't without danger. One night, Junco was asleep in her tent along with her fellow climbers, roughly 9,000 feet from the summit. They were woken by a deep, ominous rumble. Junco had never heard a sound like it before, but she knew instinctively what it meant, avalanche. Before the crew had time to scramble from their tents, they were swept up under a tumbling wave of snow. Junco was crushed under the four other climbers in her tent and was knocked unconscious. Fortunately, the expedition's Sherpas rescued Junco and her fellow climbers. Though everyone on the expedition survived, Junco couldn't walk for several days following the avalanche. Eventually, she regained her strength and returned to leading the crew up the mountain. At times, she was required to crawl or straddle sheer cliffs. 12 days following the avalanche, on May 16, 1975, Junco began her final climb to the summit. When she reached the small patch of snow that marked the highest point on Earth, she said, "'All I felt was relief.'" Despite the global media attention that followed her historic climb, Junco insisted on downplaying her achievement. She referred to herself as the 36th person to climb Everest, rather than the first woman to do so. Climbing the mountain, she said, is its own reward. Junco's love of mountaineering propelled her to keep making history. She set out to climb the tallest peaks on each continent, better known as the Seven Summits. After Everest, she had only six more to go. She first climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, then Aconcagua in Argentina, followed by Denali in Alaska, Elbrus in Russia, Mount Vinson in Antarctica. And in 1992, Junco mounted the Kars Tense Pyramid in Indonesia, becoming the first woman to complete the Seven Summits. In her later years, Junco wrote books and raised awareness about the environmental impacts of mountaineering. She shared her love for the mountains with younger generations, leading an annual trip of Japanese students at Mount Fuji. During her final trip in July of 2016, Junco was only able to make it halfway up. She cheered on the students to continue climbing. Three months later, on October 20th, 2016, Junco died. She was 77 years old. All month, we're talking about movers and shakers. For more information, check us out on Facebook and Instagram at Wamanica Podcast. Special thanks to Liz Kaplan, my favorite sister and co-creator. Talk to you tomorrow.
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