Dynamos: Flora Mae Hunter

Episode Summary

The Wamanica podcast episode "Dynamos Flora Mae Hunter" tells the story of Flora Mae Hunter, an acclaimed African-American cook who worked at southern plantations and hunting lodges for decades before publishing a beloved cookbook late in life. Flora was born around 1910 in Georgia to parents who worked at nearby plantations. The family moved to Florida when Flora was a baby so her mother could become head cook at the Sunny Hill Plantation. Flora started working in the kitchen there at age 15, learning traditional Southern cooking techniques and recipes from her mother. At 18, Flora got a job as a cook at the Foshalie Plantation. She would travel north with her employers but always returned to the plantations of Florida. In 1933 she married Peter Hunter, who worked at the sprawling Horseshoe Plantation where Flora would spend over 30 years cooking. Known as the best cook around, Flora expertly made traditional Southern fare like quail and rice cakes for the plantation owners and their hunting guests. She also innovated her own recipes. Flora had to cook for both the wealthy visitors' refined tastes as well as the household staff, which helped her master a wide range of cuisines. After retiring in the 1970s, Flora started compiling her recipes into a cookbook. But she struggled to find a publisher interested in the book. With help from a professor at Florida A&M University, Flora's cookbook "Born in the Kitchen" was finally published in 1979 when she was around 70 years old. The book preserved Flora's lifetime of plantation cooking knowledge and techniques. In 1988, nine years after publishing her cookbook, Flora received Florida's Folk Heritage Award, an honor she never expected but was proud to accept late in life. Flora passed away in 2003 at over 90 years old, leaving behind a culinary legacy.

Episode Show Notes

Flora Mae Hunter (c. 1910-2003) cooked for royalty, government officials, and wealthy business magnates. After decades of working in a kitchen, she immortalized her famed dishes in a beloved cookbook.

Episode Transcript

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But you could be even closer with Bark Super Chewer. Every month, Super Chewer brings dogs and their humans together with tough toys and meaty treats. Sign up now at superchewer.com slash iHeart. SPEAKER_02: The storied legacy of Mercedes-Benz is rooted in empowered women who've gone on to show the world what they can accomplish. This July, Wamanica has teamed up with Mercedes-Benz to feature women who've charted their own paths and achieved greatness. Join us on this journey as we celebrate women who were driven to pursue their passions, even if it meant changing course along the way. This month on Wamanica, we're talking about dynamos. Hello, from Wonder Media Network, I'm Jenny Kaplan, and this is Wamanica. This month, we're highlighting women who've led dynamic lives that have shifted, evolved, and bloomed, often later in life. Today's Wamanica cooked for royalty, government officials, and business magnates. After decades of working in a kitchen, she immortalized her famed dishes in a beloved cookbook. Please welcome Flora Mae Hunter. Flora was born Flora Mae Ross on the Spring Hill Plantation in Thomas County, Georgia, around 1910. Things were changing in that region, known as the Red Hills, an area of land spanning southern Georgia and northern Florida. After the Civil War, southern planters and plantation owners in the area were bought out by wealthy northerners looking for winter homes. Plenty of game made the region a prime location for winter hunting. Flora's family was part of a strong African-American community in the area. Many of them worked at the former plantations turned hunting retreats. Flora's mother, Lessie, worked in the kitchen, and her father, Eddie, was a handyman. They moved across the border to Leon County, Florida, when Flora was a baby, to work at the Sunny Hill Plantation. There, Lessie became head cook. By the time Flora was 15, she had joined her mother's profession and began her lifelong study of cooking. Lessie passed down recipes and techniques to Flora, the same as her mother had done for her. At 18 years old, Flora got a job working as a cook at Foshalie Plantation. She traveled north with her employers on trips to Ohio and Ontario, but she always returned to Florida. In 1933, she married Peter Hunter. He worked at the nearby Horseshoe Plantation, where the couple would continue working for more than 30 years. Horseshoe Plantation stretched across more than 12,000 acres. It was particularly busy during fall and winter, when northerners came to hunt and spend the cold months in a warmer climate. Flora quickly became known as the best cook in the region. She expertly cooked quail and rice cakes, and she came up with her own recipe, horseshoe eggs, which was a riff on deviled eggs. Every morning, the kitchen offered at least 13 different breakfast items. Flora also created lunch for all the guests' different schedules. Warm lunches for those at the plantation, and prepackaged lunches for the hunting parties. Flora's husband, Peter, would cook the packaged lunches on an open flame on the hunting grounds. Flora was cooking for her employers' tastes, as well as those of the household staff. This helped her master a wide array of recipes, what some historians have come to call culinary code-switching. In one cookbook entry, Flora served pigtail pilau with fried okra and peach cobbler for the workers. Meanwhile, the guests feasted on turtle soup, pan-broiled venison, and tapioca pudding. Flora and Peter retired around 1970 to a house near horseshoe. There, Flora started to compile her recipes into an all-encompassing cookbook. She translated what she cooked from memory into discrete amounts and cooking temperatures. But despite her fame as a cook, publishers weren't interested. And in 1978, she told the local newspaper that she didn't have the means to self-publish either. Word got around to Thelma Thurston Gorham, a professor at Florida A&M University. Thelma took on Flora's book as a project, working with a librarian and a graphic artist to edit and illustrate the book. The owner of a small local company took on the challenge of printing it. In 1979, Born in the Kitchen, Plain and Fancy Plantation Fix-ins was published. It chronicles the menus and recipes Flora created during her time at horseshoe, including staple Southern meals and the ways she adjusted them for the plantation's guests. The book was meant for cooks of all levels. Some recipes included ready-made ingredients from supermarkets, while others instructed readers on how to scale fish. It focused on the kitchen as a place of knowledge and experience where Flora offered a lifetime of expertise. As food journalist Tony Tipton-Martin wrote, "'Flora' changed the record of what it meant to be a Black cook in the face of the Aunt Jemima stereotype." In 1988, nine years after her book's publication, the state of Florida honored Flora with the Folk Heritage Award. It was an honor that she never expected. She told the local paper, "'I've never been so surprised in all my life.'" Flora died in 2003. She was in her 90s. All month, we're highlighting the stories of dynamos. For more information, check us out on Facebook and Instagram at Wamanaka Podcast. Special thanks to Liz Kaplan, my favorite sister and co-creator. Talk to you tomorrow. SPEAKER_06: It's semi-annual sale season at cheapcaribbean.com, which means you can unlock more savings on your next all-inclusive beach vacay. If you want to visit the beach in the fall, winter, or spring, it's never too early or late to start planning, which is why we're offering up to $150 off your booking of four nights or more. 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